Julie in Greenland

Amazing Polar Memories

Julie went on a Wild Fjords of South Greenland cruise to Iceland and Greenland with Quark Expeditions.

"I've travelled a lot as a travel consultant at Abbotts Travel but this has now qualified as one of my favourite places on the planet - the fascinating region of Greenland! Pristine, untouched and beautiful and what better way to explore but on Quark Expeditions newest Ultramarine ship?

And what a wonderful person to accompany me, my long-suffering husband Ian. What a treat! We flew to Reykjavik, Iceland, and spent a night there, browsing the artisan shops before boarding the Ultramarine ship the following afternoon.

Our luxurious suite had floor-to-ceiling windows, and all spacious cabins have balconies, underfloor heating, Wi-Fi, and TV. There are mandatory safety courses, all while surrounded by spectacular scenery. The ship sails the icy waters for 2 days at sea through the Denmark Strait before arriving in East Greenland. At 7.30am is a gentle wake-up call over the tannoy, starting with soothing birdsong, the weather forecast and a ‘Good Morning’ announcement plus the day’s itinerary. Plans could obviously often change because of the weather and wildlife, which added to the excitement of the trip! Breakfast buffet at the two lovely onboard restaurants, Balena and Bistro 487, is from 7.30am to 9.30am.

On this incredible expedition, were guest speakers from the Expedition Team - marine life experts, geologists, ornithologists, photographers, and wildlife experts who gave really interesting talks. The expedition leader, Colin, works alongside the captain. The drinks were complimentary throughout the cruise, so we grabbed a drink while listening to the fun, informative speeches. A Greenland culture expert talked about language and this ancient culture, and we learnt about fascinating geology, ecology and climate. There are about 140 staff and crew on board with a capacity of 199 guests.

There were lots of magical surprises and historical sites as we searched for amazing wildlife, seabirds and seals. Seeing a humpback whale and a fin whale thrilled us. It’s very rare to see a polar bear, but we’d headed east because of the weather, and we were lucky enough to see a polar bear in the distance! We spotted one in the evening whilst waiting on deck to hear the recap - everyone ran up to the panorama deck to the wilderness viewing spaces to see this incredible sighting.

For the Zodiac excursions to explore the dramatic fjords and imposing glaciers, we’d head to the ‘ready room’ to dress in practical parkas, life jackets and boots. We’d go out for a couple of hours looking at wildlife and icebergs with our boat driver/guide, on a Zodiac in temperatures of 3-10°C. I packed thick socks and a bobble hat, as you can see in my photo!

We saw an ice cap/glazier the size of Texas from the ‘flightseeing’ twin-engine helicopter ride, and we sailed south and visited places that most people have never seen. Greenland is about seven times the size of the UK! Vistas of icy waters against a backdrop of soaring mountains and lush valleys.

As it is a high-end luxury cruise, the food onboard was therefore of excellent quality - almost fine dining. We loved the delicious meals, especially the lobster Thermidor on the last day. People dressed casually for dinner, and the BBC were filming a documentary. I filmed my husband taking the challenge and the Polar Plunge... jumping into the icy waters! Brrr!

The thing that amazed me more than anything on this 'expedition' style trip was the constant element of surprise throughout the whole exhilarating experience. It was so well organised and such a sleek operation, whether it be that someone has spotted wildlife or the weather has taken a turn so that we are altering the path – all of this made the trip exciting and fun!!! Embracing the unexpected is all part of the excitement.

There was a sauna, steam and wellness Tundra Spa onboard, with relaxation rooms and brilliant treatments! The sauna has floor-to-ceiling windows, and you could just sit and look at the amazing views. Wonderful, especially after a tiring day! The untouched, pristine, rugged landscapes completely mesmerised me the whole time. The Ultramarine Ship carries 2 helicopters onboard, and each guest can enjoy a thrilling heliflight over the ice cap... a 10 to 15 minute unforgettable aerial tour of the Arctic -just WOW!

There were so many highlights, I cannot tell you which one was my favourite...

The first polar bear sighting, the heliflight or the insane scenery? Or maybe Ian waking up in Greenland, looking over the balcony and saying, “There are icebergs floating in the sea” Blimey, the temperature had dropped from 13°C to 3°C!

So many fantastic memories to treasure, and I’m so happy I could experience it!"

by Julie Gooding

To book or for more info, contact Abbotts Travel on 020 8989 9445 or email info@abbottstravel.com